Brewhouse kit for sale
Our state of the art brewery is looking for a new home.
We’re hoping to sell it all as a complete brewery and I can help with the removal and re-installation and also with the first couple of brews if necessary.
The hot liquor tank, mash tun and boiler are 2000L (12.5 brewers barrels) capacity. The two conical FVs are 1400L each.
I’ll describe each component below but please note that this is a full spec brewery and not one of the super cheapies being peddled onto unsuspecting startups. We don’t believe you can make decent beer if you don’t control the temperatures at every stage and we certainly don’t think it’s just a case of chucking the wort into a plastic tub and hoping for the best.
The hot liquor tank
Sized for a 2000L brew. This is an enclosed, insulated, shallow cone bottomed stainless tank. It has a 9KW 415V immersion heater and is electronically controlled from the remote control panel via 415V contactors and there’s a sight glass for monitoring liquor level. Complete with an Ebara CDX pump and a recirc loop. Getting the hot liquor temperature right is crucial to guarantee correct mash temperature. Just using a domestic immersion heater and thermostat isn’t going to be good enough if you want consistency from brew to brew. There’s also a manway on top to facilitate cleaning and an overflow pipe.
Again sized for a 2000L brew and capable of holding enough mash for a 6% beer the mash tun is well insulated and has four drilled plates and two ply lids with a removable sparge arm and a recirc loop. Malt arrives from the grist case via a mashing head which soaks the grain with the hot liquor fed from the HLT pump via stainless pipework. There’s a side manway door which is essential for digging out the spent grain. Just ask any brewer how much fun it is to dig out without a door – your back will definitely thank you! We have a temperature probe linked to the remote control panel to display mash temp to one decimal place. Don’t let anyone tell you mash temp isn’t important. By measuring the temperature of the grain before hand you can then adjust the hot liquor temp (normally by adding some cold) so that the combined malt and liquor is spot on. This guarantees correct enzyme action in the mash tun to ensure the right balance of maltose and dextrose which in turn relates to the right amount of condition and body in your finished beer. Leave the mash temp to chance and you get seasonal changes in your beer meaning it’s generally too thin in the winter. More dextrose means more sweetness which in turn means you can add more hop bitterness to get a fuller bodied fuller flavoured beer. No more thin, wishy washy run of the mill bland beers!
The underback is key to ensuring minimal haze problems further down the line. It’s a simple whirlpool fitted after the mash tun. At the end of the rest we open the valve and the wort spins around the underback and is then pumped back to the recirc loop of the mash tun. After a while the wort runs crystal clear and the trub can be dumped and the clear wort is then diverted to the copper (the boiler) via the Ebara pump and stainless pipework. By using an underback you minimise protein haze which means the finished beer is quicker and easier to clear (if it’s clear you want). The underback is also useful for adjusting wort strength at the end of the boil thereby guaranteeing consistency of ABV.
The boiler (aka copper)
Our is stainless steel but they still call them a ‘copper’. The boiler is an enclosed, gas fired design. It’s got two large lpg gas burners which can be changed for natural gas if required (you would need to change the gas valve too). There’s a safety interlock on the remote control panel with a key to ensure it doesn’t get turned on when someone’s inside! Access to the spent hops and for cleaning is via the side manway door and there’s a CIP loop to for the all important caustic clean down. The wort is fed to the copper from the underback pump and into three inlets mounted in the top. Hops (whole leaf) are added via the manway on the top and there’s a steam flue (single wall with condensate trap) and separate gas flue. The gas flue is twin wall and around 3 metres tall with a rain cowl on top. If gas isn’t your thing then there are two unused immersion bosses for electrical heating but that’s a messy old job and I wouldn’t recommend it. With our gas system the copper cleans up perfectly with CIP. The boiled wort is fed via stainless pipework to the hot wort pump and we have a stainless filter plate in the bottom to prevent hop leaves from clogging the pipework or pump.
Don’t be misled into thinking you can use a standard pump on boiling wort. It’ll burn out in no time. Ours is a CMG water sealed pump, built for the job. The wort pump pushes the finished, boiled wort to the heat exchanger and also through to the CIP loop. All interconnecting pipework and valves are stainless steel.
Again built for the job! The stainless heat exchanger can cool 2000L of boiled wort in around an hour. It’s built in to the CIP loop for effective cleaning and all pipework and valves are of course stainless steel. We also have a hop filter in the feed from the copper to catch any hop seeds.
Beware of any brewery kit supplier who tries to tell you you can ferment in a plastic bucket! The fermenting vessel is so often overlooked but trust me it is essential in creating beers which are consistent and high quality. Temperature and pressure are key here. Our FVs are a bit smaller than our brewhouse as we were headroom restricted when we moved premises. Each FV can hold around 1400L of product with enough headspace for the yeast. We have two identical vessels, they are enclosed – conical bottomed tanks with two water jackets each (one on the main tank body and one on the bottom cone). The temperature probes link to digital temp controllers and solenoids for switching in the cooling water. Each tank has its own CIP head and a CO2 release valve and vent. We’ve got sample ports and a spigot in each to facilitate yeast removal. We don’t crop from the top! There’s no need and the totally enclosed environment ensures there’s no risk of contamination. We use Nottingham yeast and precisely control the fermentation temperature. As regular as clockwork – as soon as fermentation is done we dial in a much lower temperature and the whole tank gets crash cooled. Lock off the CO2 vent and the tank then acts as a conditioner.
Craft beer (via Keykeg)
We use all of the above to brew great cask and keg beer. With the popularity of craft keg growing you need to be able to condition the beer effectively and correctly. With these tanks you can! Set the CO2 relief valve to the right pressure and dial in 1 deg C and leave the beer to naturally condition. We then use a special filling head to counter pressure fill Keykegs. Use a lager yeast for the fermentation and there’s no need to filter. Easy! The end result is a beautifully naturally conditioned beer full of flavour and character. Keep all your kit spotlessly clean and the beer lasts for months in Keykeg and there was no forced gassing up.
All the interconnecting stainless steel pipework is included as well as the pumps and valves. You’ll need a cold liquor tank though as ours will be impossible to remove now. We use a potable plastic tank. The remote chiller is included but it’s a bit noisy and they’re easy enough to find on eBay. Two long and two short hoses with RJT fittings and a racking spear (for cask) are also in this sale along with our hydrometers and jar. Our grist case is a simple wooden one and it might be ok to move. The remote control panel houses pump switches and interlocks and digital readout for mash temp and controller for hot liquor temp. We have two remote controllers for the FV temps. I can help with the decommissioning of the brewery and can also help to refit and start her up. I’ll even throw in some recipes to get you started. Don’t let anyone kid you that all you need is an open topped copper with an immersion heater and a single skinned open fermenter! This is a great brewery for a startup or for someone who has realised their existing kit is too small or is just not up to the job.
The brewery is available now and is located in Telford. Any questions give me a call on 077 nine double five 17903 or email david at caskale.net